History of Irish Linen

Linen

Linen fabric is one of the oldest in the world. Made from fibre extracted from the stems of the flax plant, it served as an important textile prior to the introduction of wool and cotton. The Irish climate was ideal for growing flax, while the slow Irish bleaching methods inflicted minimal damage on the fibres. Therefore, it is unsurprising that Ireland soon became an established centre for the development and production of high quality linen.

Linen in Ireland

It was the Phoenicians who first introduced flax growing and the making of linen into Ireland, before the Common Era. However, it was not until the 12th century that distinguished records of an organised Irish linen industry have been obtained.

During the 17th century, two English statesmen; Lord Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford and James Butler, Duke of Ormonde, promoted linen manufacture in Ireland. This was mainly due to the growing competition of the Irish wool industry with England. In addition to importing new equipment and commissioning the building of looms, they introduced superior quality flax seed. They also lobbied the Irish Parliament to provide tariff protection for the linen industry.

When the Edict of Nantes was revoked in 1685, many of the Huguenots who fled France settled in the British Isles. Amongst them was Louis Crommelin, who settled in the town of Lisburn, around ten miles from Belfast. Belfast itself is perhaps the most famous linen producing centre throughout history. During the Victorian era the majority of the world's linen was produced in the city.

Although the linen industry was already established in Ulster, Louis Crommelin found focused on improving weaving. His efforts were so successful that he was appointed by the Government to develop the industry over a much wider range than the small confines of Lisburn and its surroundings. His good work led to the establishment, under statute, of the Board of Trustees of the Linen Manufacturers of Ireland in 1711. Several grades were produced from the coarsest lockram to the finest sasheen.

The Industrial Revolution saw a significant development in the Irish Linen industry. By the late 18th century, Belfast had become the biggest producer of linen in the world, leading to the city being nicknamed ‘Linenopolis’, a title held until the beginning of World War I. In 1928, the Irish Linen Guild was founded to promote the native linen industry. They define Irish linen as yarn which is spun in Ireland from 100% flax fibres. Irish linen fabric is defined as fabric which is woven in Ireland from 100% linen yarns.

One of Ireland’s best known poets, the late, Seamus Heaney reflected on his experiences with flax, as read in Death of Naturalist. Here, he describes aspects of his childhood, and how flax dams were a key part of his home life in Co. Derry.

Irish linen today

Today, Irish linen remains one of the most valued and luxurious fabrics in the world. The international fashion world continues to embrace our ingenious fabric, while the unique quality of Irish linen is globally recognised. Ireland continues to be acknowledged as a producer of the world’s finest linen. Our linen carries the Irish Linen Guild logo. This symbol marks genuine Irish linen, including linen yarn spun in Ireland and linen fabrics woven in Ireland.

At Trory Ireland, we aim to continue the work of the generations behind us and maintain a strong legacy for the future. We aim to deliver the highest quality linen products, with the same commitment and passion shown by our grandparents to show the beauty and fine craftsmanship the Emerald Isle has to offer.

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Irish Centre & Lisburn Museum

The award-winning ‘Flax to Fabric’ exhibition.

To find out more about the history of Irish linen, visit the Irish Linen Centre & Lisburn Museum website or take the Google Arts and Culture virtual online tour.